Seasonal kitchen. At Brian Wawryk and Daniela Hasse from the Traube Blansingen.
In the vineyards from the Markgräferland, in the region of Baden-Württemberg, Brian Wawryk and Daniela Hasse from the Restaurant “Traube Blansingen”, explained to us what their definition of modern, award-winning cuisine is: a clear goal. The menu from their Restaurant is based on one simple principle. Seasonal and natural products from the region. In times of abundance, fermentation is used, resulting in completely new taste and experiences. We joined Daniela on her search for morels and wild garlic and were able to experience up close, with how much esteem and precision Brian is able to magically create culinary and visual highlights.
We met Daniela, early in the morning, to go on a tour in the local forest – one of the most important sources of supply for the daily ingredients of the Traube’s menu. She knows exactly where to find the best ingredients for the exclusive dishes that are served in the restaurant. Thanks to Daniela’s trained eye, we did not have to wait too long to find the first and very rare delicacy that the forest has to offer: fresh morels. With no hesitation, Daniela showed us how she prefers to prepare the morels and we enjoyed the tastes of nature together. One thing you will never find in the Traube are exotic ingredients – indeed, exclusive seasonal ingredients directly from the region are the basis for the committed award-winning kitchen.
“Only take as much as you really need.” Driven by this philosophy, Daniela and Brian ensure that there is almost no waste in their daily business. Seasonal products are fermented in the Traube with great attention to details, in order to meet the uncompromising, regional standards of their cuisine throughout the year. This qualitative ambition has not gone unnoticed: within one year after the opening, The Traube has been rewarded with one star.
After the small refreshment, we returned to the Traube with our collected treasures and got to know Brian Wawryk, chef of the Traube Blansingen. Born in Canada, he deepened his knowledge as chef in Scotland, Norway and Germany – always with a clear focus on the product. For the menu of the Traube, he only uses regional ingredients, which he manipulates to achieve a real “haute cuisine” menu. The essentials in Brians’ kitchen – well maintained knives. For him, it’s a matter of professional ethics. Just like other young chefs, he had to go through the hard learnings, in which only those who were able to keep their knives well maintained, were able to manipulate the high quality products.
Fermentation is an essential component to fill the Traube’s menu with regional flavor highlights throughout the year. Leavening the regional products preserves them for the whole year. During the little tasting, we were surprised by the new flavors that are created by fermentation. Brian uses fermented wild garlic buds as replacement for sicilian capers.
„It’s just this mindset: When you can take care of the knife – show a little bit of pride and integrity of your tools, that are an extension of your hand, it shows that you can do a little bit more difficult or time consuming things.“
– Brian Wawryk